Although we might be 10 months into this adventure, we continue to encounter new “firsts” quite frequently. This time, our “firsts” were focused on automobiles; Jeff’s first time driving in Europe (Monsieur Chauffeur), our first time driving on the autobahn, our first time trying to figure out parking in a small town, our first time paying at the gas station (you’d think this would be simple…), and our first time experiencing a real toll booth (cash and everything!).
On Friday, we set off on our first European road trip! We caught the bus to the airport, picked up our rental car, and set off for Ghent, Belgium. On the drive, Jeff checked a box off his “Europe Must” list, while taking Amy’s dad, Amy, and himself for a joy ride on the autobahn (hold on Richard and close your eyes!). It’s as fun as it sounds!
We arrived in Ghent, eventually found parking, dropped by the Airbnb, and set off for the town square. We made it to St. Bavo Cathedral just in time to admire the beautiful inside, but too late to see the famous Ghent Altarpiece (The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb), which was removed during both world wars and hidden in a salt mine by the Nazi’s. The Altarpiece, which is still missing one original panel, is currently being restored at the cathedral, but unfortunately, we missed the opening hours to view the restoration… Next time!
Following the cathedral, we stopped by a little shop for a taste of Belgian chocolate and continued on to admire the Gravensteen castle. This medieval castle looks as if it is straight out of the movies! With the tooth-shaped parapet and moat around the bottom, we half expected King Arthur and his crew to come trotting out of the main doors.
As we continued to wander through the cobblestone streets, we came across a “create your own spaghetti” restaurant where we each dined on a large bowl of homemade spaghetti with a side of perfectly crisp local cider. With full bellies, we braved the rain and headed back to the Airbnb to relax for the rest of the evening.
On Saturday, we woke up early to continue our road trip to the Normandy beaches. We stopped at Flanders Field American Cemetery, catching our first glimpse of the countless white crosses, aligned perfectly in the meticulously maintained lawn.
"In Flanders fields the poppies blow, between the crosses, row on row” - John Mccrae
We continued the trek, stopping in Étretat for a scenic picnic lunch (taking another gamble with parking). We sat on the beach, listening to the unique sound of the waves as they rolled over the rocky shore (think of a glorified rain stick, and you’re close to the sound) while enjoying our meat and cheese surrounded by the English Channel and picturesque white cliffs. After lunch, we hiked up the edge of the cliffs to take in the view, peeking through the binoculars and hoping to see England (no luck today, just boats).
Leaving the cliffs behind, we continued on, fishing coins out of our pockets to pay the numerous tolls and driving over one of the highest bridges we’ve ever seen. Before we unloaded at the Bed and Breakfast, we stopped at Gold Beach (the central of the five beaches), for our first introduction to the famous Operation Overload and the Normandy Invasion. We followed that stop with a visit to Mulberry Harbor to admire the remains of the portable harbors constructed during WWII. These artificial harbors allowed the Allies to protect their supply ships as well as unload troops, cargo, and other supplies to the mainland.
As we made our way to the B&B, we continued to admire the French countryside and teeny tiny roads, passing countless stone houses, large farm fields, fruitful apple orchards, and quaint little towns. It had the perfect French feel! Following the GPS, and not positive we should trust it, we made a turn onto another teeny tiny street, driving down the path covered by trees, eventually popping out at a fairytale cottage. We pulled up to our B&B, admiring the beautiful stone house, blossoming flowers, and fairytale setting. We jumped out of the car and were immediately welcomed by our host Caroline. She showed us around, giving the tour of our cozy rooms and the adorable breakfast nook. We dropped off our bags and settled into our new home, before taking one last drive to the small fishing town nearby to find some dinner. Although it wasn’t fish, we enjoyed a delicious dinner consisting of French crepes, tasty pizza, and local rosé cider. After dinner we drove back to the B&B and took a moonlight stroll down to the beach for one more glimpse of the English Channel.
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| Our Fairytale French B&B! |
We woke on Sunday ready to delve into history. We started the day with an amazing breakfast prepared by Caroline, with warm croissants straight from the oven, homemade jam and local honey, an assortment of French cheese, fresh squeezed orange juice and chocolate mousse for dessert... Absolutely remarkable!
Following breakfast, we drove to Utah Beach and the Utah Beach Landing Museum. We began the tour at the museum, learning about the enormous fleet of ships, the flooding of the low-lying areas controlled by the Germans, the thousands of soldiers involved in the invasion and viewed an authentic B26 Bomber. We made our way out onto the beach, looking back to see a piece of the Nazi’s Atlantic Wall, before turning around to view the horizon, trying to imagine the boats scattered across the water and soldiers running through the sand, shots being fired from both sides… These were true heroes.
We stopped at Le Roosevelt, an old bunker from the war, picking up sandwiches for lunch, and then continuing our adventure to Ponte du Hoc, another incredible monument. Ponte du Hoc is located on a cliff, overlooking Omaha Beach. During the invasion, the U.S. Army Rangers scaled the 100-foot cliffs using rope ladders and grappling hooks and, after two days of fighting, seized control of the German bunkers. Two-hundred rangers scaled these cliffs, but by June 8 only 90 remained. The terrain is still scattered with craters left by the bombings and the edge of the cliffs are still lined with spiny berry bushes, providing one more obstacle for the soldiers The casements and observation bunker are open to the public, giving us the chance to view the ocean and cliffs from a different angle, and experience the concrete bunkers.
We left Ponte due Hoc and continued on to the American Cemetery and Omaha beach. The cemetery is beautiful in a heart-wrenching way. The thousands of white crosses lined in the grass and overlooking the water is humbling. It’s hard to fully comprehend the fact that each one of the crosses standing in the grass represents one soldier, one father, husband, son, friend, one person who fought to save others from unjust humanity.
With the sun beginning to set, the crisp fall air circulating around us and a slight smell of saltwater, we ended our D-Day tour at Longues-sur-Mer battery, a quieter, less touristy destination. Here, we admired a well-preserved German coastal defense battery. We walked in and around the four casements, each still housing their original cannon. We wandered next to a freshly harvested field to the edge of the cliff, stopping to observe the bunkers still buried in the farmer’s field, as well as climbing down into the outpost which provides a perfect overlook as it sits halfway between Omaha beach and Gold beach. Taking one last look over the horizon, we silently thanked all those who sacrificed so much for us. “Time will not dim the glory of their deeds” – General John Pershing
We ended our heavy day in Bayeux, sipping on a glass of local cider (different from the other two), dining on some French crepes, and taking one last walk along the beach while trying to catch the sunset.
On Monday, we indulged in another incredible French feast, with homemade bread, crispy crepes (salted Carmel, chocolate, and apple honey) and berry mousse for dessert...Yum! Then set off to Mont Saint-Michael, the incredible Romanesque-Gothic abbey famously perched on top of a rocky island. The first church was built and consecrated on the island in 709 and from there, the island continued to develop as a clergy of Benedictines settled on the island at the request of the Duke of Normandy.
We caught our first glance of abbey through the cornfields as we approached the parking lots. We hopped out of the car and began the 1.5 mile trek to the island, enjoying the view of the abbey and its magnificence as we walked closer and closer.
Once we entered the city gates, we climbed through the streets, making our way to the abbey entrance. We took a self-guided tour of the abbey, and were stunned at the history and architecture of the building. The monastery consists of three different levels, all stacked on each other and built during different eras. Not only is this a feat in and of itself, but imagine hauling the stone from surrounding areas to the island, up the hill to the peak, and then starting the building process… crazy! During the 15th century (and on), the abbey became a renowned spiritual and intellectual center, making it a popular pilgrimage site and an architectural masterpiece. Following the tour, we walked along the city walls surrounding the island. We admired the miles upon miles of sand with a few visible dots in the distance as people explored the Bay of Mont Saint Michel during the low tide.
As the rain clouds approached, we made our way back to the car and headed for Bayeux. We stopped at a local cider shop, tasting four ciders and the famous Calvados (apple brandy), and purchasing a couple bottles to enjoy later in the evening. We continued on to Bayeux, making it in time to peek in at the Bayeux Cathedral and stroll around town. We quickly learned that most of the restaurants are closed on Monday, so with slim pickings, we found a local joint and enjoyed an evening meal. We headed back to the B&B and took one last rainy stroll along the beach, soaking up the sounds and smells of the ocean water, before popping open a bottle of cider and reminiscing about our incredible trip.
On Tuesday, we woke early to enjoy one last French feast before hitting the road. We spent the next eight hours in the car (thank you detours…), soaking up the first of the fall colors, the countless windmills on the hillsides and horizons, and the adorable small towns settled in the French, Belgium, Netherlands, and German countrysides. What a trip!
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