Christmas Market Extravaganza 2.0

We’re back at it, adventuring around our home away from home. We’ve been dreaming about returning to the Christmas markets ever since we left Germany and this year, we made it happen! Welcome to our Christmas Market Extravaganza 2.0!

We decided to take advantage of the Thanksgiving holiday and flew to Munich the Sunday before Thanksgiving, thankful to arrive on time and with no delays!

Walking out of the Munich airport, we were greeted by our first Christmas market of the season. Although were carrying all of our bags, we still took a quick minute to stroll the market, smell the smells, and then continue on to catch our bus/U-Bahn to the hotel.

We woke early Monday morning (thanks jet-lag) and started our adventuring walking through our first snow flurries of the season and dodging the morning deliveries. We wound our way through the markets and shops, stopped to warm up and dry off with a hot coffee, and grabbed our first market day dog. We opted to try the three mini wurst und brötchen versus the one long brat that sticks out of both ends of the bun. Turns out we prefer the long dog!

Having visited Munich before, there was less pressure to “see the sights” and instead more time to wander and just enjoy being back in Germany. We found a few new tourist things, including a stop at the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum and a visit to the Tollwood Winterfest, held at the same location as the famous Oktoberfest (more on that later), but mostly we just strolled the streets, enjoyed the markets, and stopped at the Rathaus to watch the Glockenspiel at noon. This famous clock tower features colorful, life-size figurines that spin and dance to music, depicting scenes from Munich’s history. It’s a crowd pleaser for the young and old. 

Following the museum, we took a short break back at the hotel, waiting for the sun to set and the true magic of the Christmas markets to materialize.

There’s just nothing quite like the German Christmas markets at night! They’re simply magical, even in the rain. We started at the Mittelalterlicher Weihnachtsmarkt (medieval market), watching the lighting of the lanterns, sipping hot glühwein from clay goblets (with a 15-euro deposit for each!), and admiring a variety of crafts and trinkets including wooden axes and swords and fur hats and jackets. The food was also unique and matched the theme with a pig roasting on a spit, salmon cooking over flames, and numerous soups to choose from. 

The Residenz Market aka palace market was next on the list and became my favorite Munich market. It had a traditional vibe with a Weihnachtspyramiden in the middle of the market and simple animatronic displays including a moose and angels singing Christmas songs and a mouse sharing Christmas stories. Even the trash cans were cute! Although we’ve been to countless markets, there’s still plenty of new foods and drinks we haven’t tried including “Glühbier” which I recently learned about. It’s exactly what it sounds like – a glühwein and beer hybrid. We had our first sample here and were not disappointed as it tasted like a less-sweet version of the traditional glühwein.

We stopped for a nostalgic dinner at Hans and Gluck followed by a visit to the Hofbrauhaus - a must when you’re in Munich. We opted for a 0.5L beer this time versus the 1L, but if you’re a first timer, splurge for the 1L, it’s definitely an experience clutching the massive stein. 

Having warmed up and dried off a bit, we were ready to continue the Christmas market tour. We stopped by the markets at Marienplatz in the main square and eventually made our way back to the medieval market for our final sample of the evening, a hot cinnamon Trdelnik which we first discovered back in Cesky Krumlov. With the rain picking up and the markets closing, we figured it was time to head back to the hotel and call it a day. 

We started day two in Munich with a lovely, quiet walk through the English Gardens, down to Altstadt. One thing we love about German parks are the random trinkhalles and little beer and food stands tucked away. We found the “Mini Hofbrauhaus” this time! On the walk, we stopped by the usually popular Eisbachwelle which we found is currently closed to surfers due to a river cleaning that messed with the sediment and minimized their surf waves. Too bad!

We strolled through Viktualienmarkt, the standard market near the main square that sells everything from fresh fish and meat to honey, breads, cheeses, and this time of year, an abundance of Christmas greenery. I’d love to take one of those wreathes home with me! We feasted on our first doner of the trip and quickly understood why Sendling’s Spezial Kebap House was so popular. It was the fanciest döner we’ve ever had and sooo yummy!

You know that feeling when you finish packing and are wondering what you forgot?… Well, I forgot my belt this trip! But it worked in my favor as we found a little leather shop during our stroll and I purchased a custom belt for less than the cost at the shopping center. Plus, I was able to practice my German and come away with a very useful souvenir. 

Finishing our city tour, we hopped on the U-Bahn and made our way to the Tollwood Winter Festival. We weren’t sure what to expect only knowing was it was held on the Oktoberfest grounds. It turned out to be a large indoor/outdoor Christmas market with a “Circus Festival” theme and featured international cuisine. We sampled the pad Thai and of course grabbed a mug of Feuerzangenbowle (flaming glühwein, our favorite). We stopped to “ooohhh” at the entertainers and the locals playing Eisstock, a version of curling where you slide a cement block across the ice. In this version, players gained points by flipping metal flags. I was too captivated to take a picture, so you’ll have to google it if you need a visual. 

Making our way back to town, we stopped by the Pink Market (the LGPTQ+ themed market) featuring a DJ and rainbow glühwein mugs and finished off the night back at the medieval market for one more goblet of glühwein and a bratwurst. 

The shopping centers always have adorable, decked out windows!

There were nativities everywhere of all different shapes and sizes.

Our time in Munich was brief, but also a great way to settle in for our two-week Christmas Market Extravaganza 2.0! If you ever find yourself in Munich with a few more days than us, consider day trips to Mittenwald, Bad Tolz, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and Neuschwanstein if you haven’t been! 

On Wednesday, we set off to Regensburg. I’m so happy to be back traveling by train! I love that we both can relax, play games, or just watch the snow dusted countryside pass by. 

Regensburg welcomed us with light snow flurries and a truly cozy winter vibe. Much of the town was created with stone, which helped protect it from devastating fires in earlier centuries and spared much of it from destruction during the war, so everywhere you look feels like a perfectly preserved movie set. Our hotel fit the medieval vibe with half-timbered walls, a skinny, creaky staircase, and slanted ceilings in our room. The Bohemian Hotel was perfectly located and ideal for our three-night stay. 

Another cute trinkhalle in the park!

We changed into our warmer clothes, then set off to grab a hot bowl of ramen for dinner before exploring another set of markets. We wandered through the Neupfarrplatz Christkindlmarkt in the heart of old town before crossing the 900 year old Stone Bridge to the Advent Market tucked along the river. It was a cozy little market, complete with four Skudden sheep, and absolutely delightful. We sampled two different glühweins here, himbeer-glühwein (raspberry) and bratapfel glühwein (baked apple) which was recommended by the girl at the glühwein stall. Both were delicious and kept us warm. 

We spent Thanksgiving exploring this charming little town, trading in turkey and pumpkin pie for brats and glühwein. We always enjoying joining a walking tour when we get to a new city. It helps us get our bearings while learning something about the place we’re visiting. Unfortunately, in Regensburg, there weren’t any English tours available, but thanks to previous travels, we knew of VoiceMap and had our own personalized tour where we were able to pause and restart as we wished (the Rick Steves app has free tours for several big towns too in case you’re ever in need!)

On our tour, we stopped at the Historische Wurstkuchl for a brat, complete with sauerkraut and mustard. This little restaurant dates back to the 1100s and is said to be one of the oldest fast-food restaurants in the world. It sits right on the edge of the river, and you choose to sit and pay the restaurant fee or order at the door and take your dog to go. We opted for the second option and ate our dogs while taking in the views of the river. I also made us pause our tour to pop into a little bakery. After passing by the Christmas cookie display a second time, I had to stop to sample a few of the little delicacies. It was an excellent decision.

You always have to look up and down and all around, you never know what you might see!

On the tour, we learned that Regensburg was founded in 80 AD by the Romans and served as the capital of Bavaria long before Munich was ever a thought. Regensburg’s location on the river was key to its success, as it was an important stop along major trade routes. Later, Regensburg became the meeting place for the Perpetual Diet (1663–1806), where representatives from across the Holy Roman Empire convened to conduct imperial affairs. Things took a turn for the worse in the 18th century due to shifts in trade routes, floods, plagues, and widespread hunger, until the Thurn and Taxis family (whose claim to fame is inventing the postal service) were appointed to the city and have resided there ever since. That’s a pretty big history for a small town!

Along the tour, we passed by the Goliath House with a mural of David and Goliath painted on the side. It was first created in the 16th century and has been restored throughout the years. If you look closely, you can see a frog that was a mark left by one of the artists who was hired to restore the mural in the 1800s. 

Our walking tour ended at the Neupfarrplatz Christmas market, so naturally, we stopped for a hot glühwein, fried banana, and Bavarian pretzel. 

As evening approached, we set off to explore the Romantic Christmas Market, which is officially one of my new favorite Christmas markets! It’s a strong contender with the Heinzels Wintermärchen in Cologne which is still #1 on my list.

The Romantic Christmas market is held at the Thurn und Taxis Palace and, although you have to pay a small entrance fee, it’s totally worth it! As you walk through the gates, you’re greeted with a candle lit, lantern lined trail. This magical trail guides you to the market stalls which line the palace and lead you into the palace courtyard where a massive Christmas tree and more stalls await your viewing. Strolling out of the courtyard, we found a life-size nativity, alpacas munching on hay, and our first ever Glühsecco and Glühgin - both are exactly what they sound like! This Christmas Market Extravaganza is the year of trying new types of Glühwein!

Shortly after we began perusing the stalls, we heard odd clinking, clanking, clunking sounds and soon countless monster-esque creatures were headed our way. It was almost like we stepped into a haunted house! The creatures were quite playful, sneaking up behind people to spook them, taking selfies, and causing organized mayhem. Jeff and I both had close-up encounters, though Jeff more so than me, as one creature was enthralled with his beard.

We asked one of the vendors about the creatures and she explained that Perchten are Bavarian folklore who visit in early December to drive away evil spirits. We planned it right, because the Perchten only visit the market a couple times a year! It was quite the sight and a fun tradition to be part of. 

We continued our stroll of the palace grounds, walking through the gardens, up to the Noble Champagne Pavilion for an overview of the market, and back down past the Kinderzauberwald (kid’s enchanted forest). Strolling around the markets, I finally bought my “good luck” mushroom ornament and had a lovely Germ-ish conversation with the owner. Our conversation was a mix of German and English and quite fun. We finished the night with one final snack – fancy Flammkuchen or wood-fired fresh sourdough bread topped with cheese and potatoes. Yum! 

Today’s goal was to stay warm while waiting for our midnight sleeper train. Thankfully we were able to store our bags at the hotel until 10pm so we didn’t have to worry about those for the day!

We started off at Urban Coffee, sipping our drinks and admiring all of their delicacies on full display due to a photo shoot that was occurring for their social media. Coffee and a show! Fueled up, we took a chilly walk across Stone Bridge and were rewarded with stunning views of frost covered trees, colored row houses, and the Porta Praetoria (Roman gate built in 179 AD). 

We stopped by the World Heritage Visitor Center to thaw and learned more about Regensburg’s history and the process to become a UNESCO heritage site. After warming up, we set off again, strolling through the skinny alleys, popping into shops and eventually stopping at a little restaurant off the beaten path for lunch. Wunderlust was just what we needed! A veggie-filled hot meal with a trendy plant-ific atmosphere, it was delightful. 

We weaved our way through the Lucrezia Christmas Market, which opened today, admiring a whole new slew of goodies including intricately carved candles and a woodworker actively creating new goods. 

We stopped for another warmup at the Haufbrauhaus before grabbing a wurst at the market and heading to the Infinity Light Show which we randomly stumbled upon. 

We’re still not exactly sure what the Light Show was about, but it was another unique experience to add to the list! We followed the local’s lead, entering the church, picking out our bean bags, and then looking up, waiting for the show to start. It was a kaleidoscope of sound and light dancing across the ceiling, we think telling the story of earth’s creation, but we’re not positive. 

By the end of the show, we were chilled to the bone (the churches are never heated!) and stopped at Weissbräuhaus for a hot beverage and delicious goulash. We took one final stroll through the markets and then set off for the train station. 

You know those times you come up with a brilliant idea in theory, but the execution is less than desirable? Well, that’s kind of what happened with our sleeper train. We switched around our itinerary a bit so we could pick up our friends in Amsterdam and show them Düsseldorf and the North Rhine before heading to Nuremberg to hit the markets we missed when we lived abroad. While looking for ways to travel north from Regensburg, we discovered the night train which seemed perfect and allowed me to check another item off my bucket list! The only downfall was it arrived in Regensburg just after midnight. In our excitement of getting to experience a night train we booked it and decided to worry about the details later. Fast forward to the trip where we spent two hours hanging out in a Burger King at 10pm waiting for the train (it was the only thing open and the warmest place to sit). As we climbed aboard, we quickly realized someone was in our reserved room… we grabbed the attendant who confirmed our discovery, stating that someone (drunk) had snuck into our room on the ride and decided to use it as their own… He quickly prepared us a new room which was great until we realized the sink water didn’t work… The attendant, who by this time felt like a new friend, brought us a few water bottles that we could use to brush our teeth and wash our hands. Just like camping! 

Sleep was fitful with the unpredictable swaying of the train, new noises to get used to, and an early wakeup call with our breakfast delivery. It wasn’t the most extravagant experience, but it was certainly a unique one! Would we do it again? Probably not unless it was for a good reason. Are we glad we did it once in our life, definitely! 

After arriving in Amsterdam, we picked our friends Sam and Allen up at the central train station and settled into our hotel before heading out to explore the city. 

At 3pm we hoped on a boat for our highly anticipated canal tour. Those Dam Boat guys are our #1 recommendation for anyone traveling to Amsterdam. Their excursions are the absolute best! This was our 4th ride with them, and we still learned new things about the city. We also discovered Buufs Keuken, a great little shop a few doors down from the Dam Boat Guys where we picked up an incredible charcuterie box for only 25 euros! Add that to our jug of hot glühwein and the sweet older Scottish couple sharing our ride, and we were set for a perfect experience. 

Someone forgot to cover their boat and was stuck shoveling water... Oops!

Our excursion ended as the sun was setting and lights began to glow, revealing an entirely different view of the city or what we like to call a living museum. 

Our skipper recommended Indonesian cuisine for dinner given Amsterdam’s colonial history. We followed his rec and then set off to view the light art that’s part of Amsterdam’s Winter Festival. This year’s theme was “World of Legacy”. 

During our stroll, we found ourselves in the infamous red-light district (what a scene!) and ended the night with warm stroop waffles (I think I’ll skip the pistachio yumminess next time, it was a bit messy…). 

Sunday started with a visit to the Anne Frank House and museum. It’s not a cheery experience, but it is fascinating and impactful. The museum provides a history of Anne Frank and the other inhabitants of the Secret Annex. During the tour, you walk through the hidden bookcase up to the Secret Annex. Walking around, it’s hard to imagine spending two isolated years hidden away, knowing any sound you made could cost you your life. I also found the final exhibit of the museum fascinating as it told the story of Otto Frank’s three-month journey back to Amsterdam after his liberation from Auschwitz. 

Searching for a lighter experience following the museum, we stopped by Pancakes to sample the delectable Dutch version of a breakfast classic. Dutch pancakes a bit flatter than our usual puffy pancakes in the US, but still just as delicious. Fueled up, we set off again, spending the rest of the morning walking the canals, touring the adorable little neighborhoods, and soaking in the 30 minutes sun that was peeking through the clouds (our first sun of the trip!). We stopped in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas and the public library for a bird’s eye view of the city, but unfortunately the viewing platform was closed. Luckily there were a few windows we could peek through so the side trip wasn’t a complete bust. 

We eventually made our way back to the hotel, packed our bags, and set off to catch our train to Düsseldorf. This was a special one because it was Sam and Allen’s first train ride! 

Our first stop in Düsseldorf was for a hot bowl of ramen at our absolute favorite, and most frequented restaurant in Düsseldorf. Naniwa Noodles & Soups is next level! Their ramen has spoiled us and left us with unattainable ramen standards. 

With full, warm bellies, we were ready to show off Düsseldorf’s Christmas markets. We were immediately surprised to see that the markets have been enhanced and expanded to cover more of the city. Luckily, the Handwerkermarkt, our favorite, remained unchanged and the Feuerzangenbowle (fiery rum glühwein) was still delicious! 

Weaving our way through the city, we stopped at the secret window in Altstadt where Allen ordered us all a shot of Düsseldorf’s special Killepitsch before continuing to the Handwerkermarkt which is tucked in a little square surrounded by the Rathaus (city hall). Here, we met up with Jeff’s old office mate, turned friend, and her husband. We enjoyed catching up, sharing lots of laughs, and closing down the market (it was only 8pm - earlier than we remembered). Still wanting to spend time together, our group shifted to Uerige giving Sam and Allen a chance to taste Düsseldorf’s special Alt Bier. 

So much cheese!

Eventually calling it a night, we set off back to the hotel through the very quiet and deserted city, as it was a Sunday night.

Our Düsseldorf day started with fresh squeezed orange juice and pastries from one of the many local bakeries. We made our way to Pemplefort and our old stomping grounds. We walked past our apartment and stopped in the Edeka to show off the German and America isles. We grabbed lunch at one of my other all-time favorite spots, Xoxo Buddha Bowls, and took our food down to the Rhine. We sat on the wall, enjoying our chilly picnic while watching the boats pass by and catching a glimpse of the sheep across the river. 

The Düsseldorf tour continued with a walk along the Rhine over to Altstadt and the Christmas markets. We continued to be amazed by the expansion of the markets and the upgrade in the stalls. There’s definitely been a transformation! We later learned these markets have become more of a hotspot for tourists (mainly the Dutch according to Jeff’s coworker) which has supported their growth. Instead of 4-5 smaller, distinct markets, there are at least two entirely new markets, and the originals have all grown and now weave and wind into each other. There are a couple new Weihnachtspyramides, a giant outdoor Christmas tree, grander decorations, and a larger variety of crafts, merchandise, and food. 

Besides just wandering and soaking in the vibes, one of our favorite market experiences is deciding what new (or familiar) treat to sample. This time around we grabbed brats (roasted over the coals of course), fried cheese on a stick, Raclette (the best cheesy bread you’ll ever have, if you can get past the smell), and churros with white chocolate (one of our original favorites. Thank goodness the OG stand was still there!). While chomping our churros, a local gentleman tried to convince us that the churros at a different shop were better, even insisting we sample his… thanks for the suggestion, but we’ll stick with the ones we know and love - his didn’t have white chocolate. 

This is Eisstock!

This is one of the new markets! The stands were adorable!

As the evening progressed, we wandered back to the Rathaus and met up with several of Jeff’s German coworkers from before. We enjoyed a couple glühweins with the group before all moving to the brewery and ending the night inside the tiny Killepitsch shop. It was nice to catch up with old friends and hear about how the office and German firm are doing. 

Today, was Cologne day! We fueled up with brunch at Löffelbar (another Düsseldorf favorite) and then set off to catch the train to Cologne. 

The wow-factor of Cologne’s majestic cathedral never gets old! As you walk out of the train station you’re immediately hit with a jaw-dropping view of a massive structure towering over the city. We snapped a few photos and popped inside to admire numerous alters, tombs, organs, beautiful windows, and one of the main draws, the Shrine of the Magi, which was fitting since it is Christmas.

Next up was a quick jaunt through the market as we made our way to Cologne’s “love locks”, thousands of padlocks attached to the Hohenzollern Bridge and down the old Roman road. There’s nothing quite like walking along a road that’s 2,000 years old!

We grabbed döner boxes for lunch and spent the next bit wandering around the Christmas markets. We stopped and warmed up at a little café, taking part in the traditional German “kaffee und kuchen”. We opted to sample the Black Forest cake and Mohnkuchen (poppy seed cake) with a side of fresh ginger tea and mint tea with the leaves still in the cup. All of it was delicious! 

A giant gingerbread house!

As darkness descended, we strolled through the Angel Market, grabbing our first glühwein of the day. We took the city tour back to our absolute favorite market, Heinzels Wintermarchen, or as we call it the “gnome market”. After seeing it again, I can officially say it’s still my all-time favorite market. There’s nostalgia attached to it, but also, it’s just so stinkin cute. It still holds a traditional vibe with cozy stalls, hand-painted signs, and a variety of foods and collectables. We grabbed our gnome mugs (adding one more to our collection) and headed to the top of the Stapelhaus to soak in the views, snow and all. Well, fake snow, but they almost tricked us! 

The markers and signs on the stalls are so fun!

A popcorn vending machine!

For dinner, we grabbed brats and flammlachs (another favorite! Salmon slow-cooked over a fire with a delicious herb sauce – yum!), and finally sampled heiße maronen (hot chestnuts - they were better than the first time we tried them but still not a favorite...) before heading to another secret spot. This mini market is just down the steps from the Cathedral market and is where we first learned about Feuerzangenbowle – the fiery rum glühwein. There’s a special stand that has unique mugs that hold a sugar cone. The sugar is doused in rum and lit on fire. It’s a whole spectacle and makes for an entertaining experience! Fiery drinks, plus live German music and random dancing surrounded by happy people enjoying a magical night out, what more could you ask for? 

We enjoyed a final stroll around the cathedral market, grabbing a few souvenirs on the way out and escaping to the train right as the rain began. Back in Düsseldorf, we ended the evening with yet another D-Dorf favorite - taro boba tea from Sphere Bay. It’s soo yummy! 

We spent our last morning in Düsseldorf strolling the town, taking in the sights, and saying goodbye to our home away from home. Jeff caught the tram to the Deloitte office for a tour of the new building that’s complete with a pool table, video game room, and cafeteria. The rest of grabbed a coffee and strolled through the park checking out the pink Gatsby house and black and white swans. We peeked in St. Lambert’s Basilica with its twisted top and caught the organist practicing adding to the ambiance.

Another cute window display

We walked the Carlplatz market, admiring the fresh fruit, meat and cheese stands and grabbed a glühwein mix and a mustard flavored pickle from the spice stand. Turns out they’ve also changed a bit since I last got one… This pickle was missing its skin and looked more like a filet of fish versus a pickle… 

For tradition’s sake, we stopped at the chocolate shop for some stocking stuffers. While I was checking out and practicing my German, the gal asked (in German) if I wanted a bag, I replied “ja bitte” (yes please) then she said something else about a “tutte” (bag). I replied “ja bitte” again thinking she misunderstood me. She then asked, “English?” to which I always say yes, and she asked, “I’m curious what’s in your bag?” While pointing to my very weird looking pickle… we ended up having a whole conversation about my mustard flavored pickle and my possible recommendation to try them. It was great and hilarious. 

We met back up with Jeff who had stopped by our favorite bakery and grabbed our go to mini lemon bundt cakes, they are so delicious! We dined on one more hot bowl of Naniwa’s ramen, grabbed boba tea for the train, and set off to Nuremberg! 

We arrived in Nuremberg in time to take a quick stroll around the markets, sample a dampfnudel (a dumpling covered in vanilla sauce and cinnamon) and the traditional three brats in a roll with sauerkraut, and enjoy a mug of glühwein from the largest Feuerzangenbowle cauldron in the world. We later learned it holds 9,000 liters of glühwein and takes 48 hours to heat and prepare! We sipped our hot beverage by the canal before heading back to the hotel, snagging one more Nuremberg specialty, their traditional gingerbread, from the last open stand. 

Another tiny European shower!

Thursday started with a delicious European breakfast which included individual little pots of coffee, eggs to order, and way too many delicious baked goods. The breakfast was European, but the atmosphere was American as we had several Viking Cruise members staying at our hotel. The daily turnover was impressive!

Following breakfast, we set off for a free walking tour of the city, passing through Frauentor along the way. Stepping through the medieval gate, we felt transported back in time to a charming courtyard filled with a wishing well, half-timbered houses, traditional artisan shops, and the Frauentorturm standing tall above it all. 

During the walking tour, we were enthralled by everything our guide shared with us. We made our way to the castle where we learned about Nuremberg’s history from past to present. Prior to WWII, we learned that Nuremberg was a coveted city for Hitler’s Nazi Party Rallies because of its central location and being a major railway hub. This made it relatively easy for party members and supporters to attend rallies, helping the regime stage massive, propaganda events. We were amazed to learn that during the war, 90% of Nuremberg’s Old Town was destroyed, however you can’t tell. In the decades that followed, the city intentionally rebuilt in its original medieval style preserving its historic charm. We also learned that Nuremberg was deliberately chosen as the site for the postwar Nuremberg Trials one, because it’s judicial building was relatively undamaged, and two, as a powerful statement, transforming the city that was once the stage of Nazi ideology into one associated with accountability and international law. 

We also received a brief introduction to Albrecht Dürer, a 15th-century artist and one of Nuremberg’s most famous figures. Dürer is known for a self-portrait in which he depicted himself with Christ-like features, as well as a remarkably realistic sketch of a rhinoceros which he created solely based on a written description. Google it—you’ll be amazed.

As I’ve said before, we love free walking tours, and this one was no exception. It was a great way to get our bearings and learn something new about another incredible city. 

Desperately needing to warm up, we stopped for German schnitzel and goulash for lunch at Wirtshaus Hütt'n. The food wasn’t anything to write home about, but the traditional German beer-hall vibe was spot on. 

Following lunch, we continued our Christmas Market tour strolling around the famous Christkindlesmarkt which dates back to 1628! We wandered through the Sister Cities International Market showcasing food and crafts from around the world and stopped to listen to the kid’s choir singing on stage. My favorite song was about “Lebenkuchen jeden tag” aka “Gingerbread everyday”. 

As the day continued, so did we. After another break to warm up, we continued to the Kinder Christkindlesmarkt(Children’s Christmas Market), where we saw our first-ever double-decker carousel. Not only was the size impressive, but the carvings and detail were too. We also sampled a couple of Bavarian pretzels before weaving our way back through Old Town. This time, a local community band was playing on the grandstand, and the live music added an extra layer of charm to the markets. 

Eventually, we found ourselves back near the castle at what became our favorite little Nuremberg market stall. There, we introduced Sam and Allen to amaretto glühwein and sipped our drinks from the best little “Wanderer” stein, which of course I added to our collection.

This house is a "living" advent calendar that revealed new festive window scenes each day!

We finished the night sampling Kasespatzle which is glorified Mac and cheese. It’s made by scraping out a massive cheese wheel and then adding the noodles to the cheese mixing it until it’s covered in pure yumminess. It’s both a spectacle and a delicacy! 

Friday was unofficially deemed Nuremberg History Day. We started by visiting the Nuremberg Palace of Justice and infamous courtroom 600. The experience was fascinating and intense. We started as participants in the courtroom, watching footage from the actual trials on a video overlay before making our way upstairs to the museum exhibit. It was astonishing to realize that these trials were organized in just one month—the courtroom was renovated, accommodations were made, and the judges, defense teams, and prosecutors were gathered.

I found the interpreting system particularly fascinating given how many different languages were involved. Each participant had headphones and dials they could use to switch between languages. They also had red and yellow lights on the desks to signal whether someone needed to speak slower or continue as they were. Everything was meticulously documented, so if any questions arose in real time, the interpretation could be reviewed and clarified as needed. It was an impressive operation, to say the least.

Another captivating fact was that during the trials, the prosecution was not required to find or include any exculpatory information, they only needed evidence against the defendants. It was solely up to the defense team to prove innocence. 

In the exhibit, we read several bios of individuals from all sides, learned about the heinous crimes committed, and specific charges filed against those involved. We also reflected on the lasting influence the Nuremberg Trials had on international criminal law and the sobering reality that crimes against humanity still persist today. Standing there, it was impossible not to think about how relevant these lessons remain. As Sydney J. Harris aptly put it, “History repeats itself, but in such cunning disguise that we never detect the resemblance until the damage is done.”  

We could have spent another hour or two in the museum, but we all reached a point of information overload and needed to move on to our next history lesson of the day – an Art Bunker tour under the city.

During the Art Bunker tour, we traveled underground, walking through the carved-out tunnels that were originally used for storing beer and later adapted into bomb shelters and art repositories. The tunnels were transformed by the nazis into an art storage facility complete with an A/C and dehumidifying system. Art from around the city and elsewhere was collected and stored in the bunkers, everything from statues to paintings, and stained-glass windows were preserved and guarded by two workers who stayed underground for 48-hour shifts. 

For the pieces that were too large or immovable, they built makeshift walls around them, serving as temporary safeguards from the bombs. Nuremberg’s Schöner Brunnen (the 14th century “Beautiful Fountain”) in the main square was one example of a structure that survived due to the barriers around it. Other structures included altarpieces in the churches, large stained-glass windows, and public monuments. It was fascinating to walk around after the tour, seeing those preserved pieces dispersed about the city.

As we emerged from the bunker, the sun was peeking out between the clouds (our second sighting in two weeks!). We took full advantage and headed to the castle for our final history lesson of the day. 

Nuremberg Castle is the perfect example of a medieval fortress. Perched atop a hill and protected by massive walls, it features three distinct towers that offer sweeping views of the surrounding area. The castle once served as a residence for German kings and a center of imperial power—just imagine the stories those walls could tell!

We spiraled upward through Sinwell Tower and were rewarded with spectacular views of the city. We still can’t believe the city structures are relatively “new” as it really does look like an old medieval city. 

With rumbling bellies, we searched for seats at a local brewery recommended by our tour guide, but the tiny place was packed! Instead, we discovered Moki, a delicious Asian restaurant which happened to be close to the WinterDorf market near Jakobzplatz and the only market left on our list. 

We ambled through the market and made our way back to the Christkindlesmarkt where we noticed people on the balcony at the Frauenkirche. This is the same platform from where the Christkind (Nuremberg’s famous Christmas Angel) officially opens the market. We scurried over to Frauenkirche and discovered it was open to the public! After a short wait, Sam and I made our way to the lookout and enjoyed a bird’s eye view of the market while Jeff and Allen waived from below. 

Can you spot Jeff and Allen?

We grabbed one final Christmas market treat (a cinnamon trdelnik this time!) and left the crowds behind as we strolled the quiet streets of Trödelmarkt and passed over Hangman’s Bridge. 

We had heard so much about Nuremberg and its famous Christmas markets, and experiencing them firsthand lived up to the hype! From the twinkling lights and festive stalls to the aroma of gingerbread, mulled wine, and roasted almonds, every moment felt magical. It was the perfect way to celebrate the Christmas season! 

Our final stop of the trip was Frankfurt. We enjoyed our last, quiet train ride across the country, arriving in Frankfurt in time for lunch at the markets. We bumped into Jeff’s former coworker, who we were planning to meet later, at the “secret” parking garage market which has great views of the city skyline and is a little less crazy than the main market. It was so fun to catch up with Stefanie and her husband while soaking in the vibes of another Christmas market. 

We braved Frankfurt’s main market and quickly learned it wasn’t for us… It was jam-packed and the most crowded market we’d been in all trip. We had to snake our way through the crowds and were worried we’d lose half our glühwein to spillage if we tried to sip it while standing. As crazy as it was, the views were pretty unforgettable with glowing Christmas market stalls, historic buildings lining the street, and modern skyscrapers peeking out above it all. Three wildly different architectural eras colliding in a single scene.

So many sausages!

We decided to take Stefanie's recommendation and head across the river to the Apfelweinstuben for one final German dinner and a chance to sample the local Apfelwein. After being turned away from two packed restaurants, we finally found one that had just opened and had room for us—thank goodness! The schnitzel hit the spot, though we all agreed the Apfelwein is definitely an acquired taste.

Following dinner, we peeked in a few bars hoping to catch the local Fußball game, but the bars were either packed with outside seating only or too smokey inside… We unanimously agreed that freezing wasn’t worth it, so instead we made our way back through the bustling main market to our secret parking garage for one final glühwein and a toast to an unforgettable Christmas Market Extravaganza!