“Good Morning Vietnam!”

We made it to Vietnam! Another country we’ve heard so many good things about. Our first stop was to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). 

The ride from the airport to the hotel was an eye opener with the constant stream of motorbikes zooming by. It was fascinating to watch and a symphony for our ears as the horns beeped around us. There were gentle beeps telling other cars and bikes that someone was close by, longer more irritated beeps when someone was in the way, and siren-esque beeps from the buses warning everyone they were turning. The motorbikes and scooters zoomed in all directions, driving into oncoming traffic, squeezing between cars and buses, maneuvering and turning into the flowing traffic, and passing across the white and yellow lines. The painted lanes seemed to be more of a suggestion rather than a road rule, and somehow it all worked!

Another incredible sight was seeing all of the different bikes and riders. Several motorbikes had two riders, a few had ladies riding side saddle, some had two adults and 1 or 2 children squished between. Others had a single rider, some with items like ladders strapped to their backs and/or bikes packed with anything and everything you can imagine. Some carried massive bags of flowers or produce, others were stacked higher and wider than the driver with packaged goods, one had eight large water jugs balanced on the back, and another had two riders and a large air compressor sitting between them. It was mesmerizing and fun to observe! 

When we entered our hotel we were treated like royalty. The porter grabbed our bags while the receptionist escorted us to the VIP lounge where they checked us in and handed us a cup of coffee. Jeff’s status really spoils us, especially when we travel internationally. 

Once we made it to our room, our bags were missing so I called down and asked if our two bags could be brought up. A few minutes later there was a knock on the door and the porter handed us two paper bags… oops! There was our first language mishap. In the future I will try to remember to say “luggage” or “suitcases”. We sorted that out and our luggage was delivered shortly after. 

Following a quick change, we hit the town. The most nerve-wracking part was crossing the street… if there’s not a light, you just have to confidently walk and let the cars and bikes move around you. It’s almost like you have an invisible shield surrounding you. We gained a little more confidence as time went on. 

Being out in the town was a sensory experience. Not only were there people and motorbikes everywhere, but there were also countless food vendors set up all along the sidewalks providing an array of smells. There were ladies cutting up fruit and others cooking meat over hot coals surrounded by tiny stools strewn about to sit on while you enjoyed your meal. Occasionally we’d get a whiff of the infamous durian fruit (which we want to try at some point) or another stringent smell that interrupted the more delectable scents of the cooked food. And while it wasn’t quite as muggy as Singapore, it was definitely still hot and humid. An immersive experience for sure!

We found a shopping mall to cool down in and opted for an easy food court dinner while we adjusted to our new environment. 

Day two in Vietnam was a little smoother as we knew more of what to expect. We started with a stop at the Central Post Office and were planning to go to Notre Dame Cathedral, but not only was it covered in scaffolding, it was also a first communion Sunday and there were families and little girls in white dresses everywhere. We tried to go back on Monday, but it was closed. Another time!

We continued on to the Reunification Palace and Ben Thanh Market. We’ve been to several markets during our travels, but this style was a first. There was a mix of food, countless trinkets, suitcases, and massive amounts of clothes for sale. As we scooted through the tiny isles, shop owners called out asking what we were looking for and if we needed anything - shoes, belts, jewelry, a new shirt? It’s quite the experience! 

We grabbed a light rice bowl for lunch, saving room for our food tour later in the day, and continued to our foot and leg massage for Jeff and a massage/pedicure combo for me! I can’t explain just how good this felt… after all of the walking we’ve been doing our feet deserved some pampering. I selected the “VIP treatment” as it was only $20 USD for an hour of opulence. Jeff chose the foot/leg massage and regretted not upgrading to the VIP status. :D

As evening approached, we prepared for our Saigon highlight, a motorbike food tour. We chose to go with Xo Tours and highly recommend this experience if you’re ever in Vietnam! Xo is the original all female tour company and the experience they provided was impeccable. 

Our drivers picked us up at the hotel, gave us a quick briefing, and then we were off! As experts do, they slipped seamlessly into the flowing traffic and weaved their way in and out of the surrounding vehicles. It was a little nerve wracking at first as we got used to cars passing within a foot of us, randomly pulling a U-turn, and crossing into oncoming traffic… with time it became easier to soak in the experience and enjoy the ride. 

At our first stop, we met up with the other ten guests and settled in for a delicious hot bowl of Bún Bò Huế soup with sausage, beef, and crab. We added a smidgen of the special chili mix which spiced it up and changed the entire flavor. 

One of the unique things about this ride was that we visited districts outside of the popular touristy areas. We had the chance to experience a piece of daily life in the surrounding areas as well as the elite parts of town. 

Our second stop was Chinatown’s wet market. Our guides took us around the market, naming the different foods and fruits and telling us how to consume them. I loved seeing the variety of fruits, especially the avocados that looked like zucchini’s.

We hopped back on the bikes and headed to District 8 where the gals used the small grills on the table to cook our favorite meal of the night. The grilled beef and prawns dipped in a special sauce was the winner! The sauce was a mix of salt, ground pepper, fresh spicy peppers, a pinch of sugar, and fresh kumquat juice. I’m hoping to recreate it when we get home! We also had fresh fruit that our guides picked up at the market. Mangosten, langsat, Mang Cau (custard apple), and Cam sành (green oranges), they were all delicious! 

During the stop, we put our chopstick skills to the test in a friendly table competition by passing salted peanuts down the line. Our team won as we passed the most peanuts in the set time and were rewarded with “Xo Champion” pins for the win. 

The next stop was in the elite part of town. Here we learned about the bleak reality of the earnings gap that exists in Vietnam. Our guide explained that the wealthy are investing in real estate as a form of a savings account due to the hyperinflation of their currency. The condos and apartments are too expensive for the average Vietnamese person to buy or rent (they make on average $300 USD a month), so the apartments sit empty, and the locals continue to work multiple jobs and live in multi-generational shared spaces. As we looked around, we could see only a handful of lights on in each building, showing that few spaces were occupied. This part of the tour was disheartening but part of the reality.

Our final stop of the night was in District 4, the revamped, former mob district. We were served doctored up scallops still on the shell, seasoned chicken, and a creamy pudding-esque dessert for Jeff and lychee for me. Jeff was extra adventurous and sampled a dish his driver recommended which is a cooked egg with a chick still in it… 

We had a great time zooming around Saigon with the Xo girls and are so glad we booked the tour! 

While planning the trip, we chose to spend more time in northern Vietnam, which made our time in Ho Chi Minh fly by. On our final half day in the city, we decided to head back to Veganic Nail & Spa to treat ourselves to a massage. They did such a nice job with our feet and legs, our backs were jealous, also it was only $20 USD for a 60 minute neck and shoulder massage… how can we pass that up?! It was glorious and may be the best $40 we’ve spent so far on this trip. 

We took one final stroll through the city before heading back to the hotel to test out the cotton candy machine and grab our bags. Next stop, Hanoi!

We had our first travel delay with our flight to Hanoi, that’s pretty good given this was our 8th flight! As we were taxiing, the pilot came over the intercom and said there was a technical issue… back to the gate and two hours later we were finally off! The best part of the flight was at the end when the family in front of us encouraged their 2 year old daughter to talk to us to us in English. It was pretty adorable. 

We set off to Ninh Binh on Tuesday morning. We had a small group tour booked, but as we were the only ones to reserve it, it turned into a private tour. Bonus!

We spent the first bit of the trip mesmerized again by the sheer number of scooters zooming around us as we drove through the morning rush hour while leaving Hanoi. 

Once we left the big city, we enjoyed the scenery, a mix of small towns, rice fields, and the occasional water buffalo. As we neared Ninh Binh, the limestone mountains made an appearance, and we knew we were getting close.

Our first stop was at Hang Mua, a 500 step hike with spectacular views. The hike itself wasn’t too bad, but it was crazy hot and muggy which resulted in massive amounts of sweat… by the time we got to the top we, like everyone else, were dripping… I don’t think either of us have ever sweat so much in our lives… it surpassed our record from Japan. But it was worth it! Our timing was perfect as the rice fields were at their prime and the lotus were beginning to bloom. We also randomly ran into Chef J Chong from the Max show The Big Brunch that we watched a few months ago. That was fun!

We enjoyed a little respite in the car as we drove to our second stop of the day, a bike tour through the countryside. We rode through the little town, past the rice fields, blooming lotus, flowering trees, and trees filled with jack fruit waiting to be picked (the biggest one was the size of a basketball!). We peddled along a dirt road and by a little river that was scattered with restaurants nestled into the rocks. It was a great ride and a fun way to see the area. 

We stopped for an amazing lunch at a local restaurant. We were set to place our order, but then our waitress just started bringing food out, and it kept coming! All of it was delicious, and the best part was we didn’t have to make any decisions! We just showed up and enjoyed. 

Our final stop of the day was a boat ride along the Ngo Dong River. Our guide grabbed us a boat and a rower and we were off. It was a great ride, but we felt a little uncomfortable because our rower could easily have been our grandma… At the end of the tour I guess we gave her a good tip, because she was very giggly and kept waiving and saying bye as we left… hopefully we made her day, because she made ours!

The ride itself was stunning. We were surrounded by limestone mountains and blooming rice fields. We went through three different caves, ducking at times to avoid bumping our heads. We enjoyed watching the rowers around us maneuvering the oars with their feet and the farmers harvesting the rice. 

With a full day behind us, we headed back to Hanoi with one random stop so our driver could buy some goat meat… apparently, it’s nice and fresh in this area. On the ride home we passed our favorite motorbike so far, this one had a metal crate attached to the back with two cows just hanging out going for a ride. 

Once back in Hanoi, we did some much needed laundry and set out for an evening walk of the town. 

We took it easy on Wednesday morning as we prepared for our 3-day 2-night motorbike tour. We had an afternoon sleeper bus booked to take us to Ha Giang where we would stay for one night before setting off to discover the countryside. 

On our way to the bus stop, we experienced our first car ride where I thought for sure we were going to get in an accident. We somehow squeezed between cars and motorbikes, stopped within inches of hitting a turning car, and sat a literal side mirrors length away from a bus. During the ride I found myself pushing my imaginary break and sucking in to make us smaller… somehow, we made it without any incident! 

We waited for our bus with foreboding anticipation… we’ve had mixed experiences with busses and we both had an unsettled feeling about this one. Jeff confirmed our pick-up location with the driver via What’s App, but once we saw the bus turn in a different direction, we knew we needed to make a run for it… this was bound to happen at least once on our trip and thankfully it happened when we didn’t have our giant backpacks! We made it and were able to blast the AC in our cozy compartments and relax for the next 6.5 hours. Well mostly. The bus was a really fun experience but it’s not the smoothest ride… If you’re one to easily get car sick, I’d opt for a different ride. 

At our first rest stop, I was in for a treat… the ladies room consisted of 6 squat toilets all lined up next to each other. No barriers, no TP just squat, spray or shake, and leave … I’ve seen a few squat toilets around but, until now, there were always “regular” toilets as an option. Cheers to experiencing the Vietnamese way! 

Imagine this squatter without the TP and walls and a line of 5 others and that’s about what the rest area looked like :P

Along the way, we learned that these busses not only transport people, but they also transport goods. We saw our bus drop off a washer and a large wooden crate at two different stops, and another bus had a crate of chickens strapped to the top. We were also trying to figure out why some people were sitting on the ground between the two rows of cabins… discount tickets maybe?

We arrived late into Ha Giang and set off to find dinner. We realized we were staying in the quieter, local area of town and as we walked the streets the kids waived and said “hello”, grinning ear to ear when we waived and said hi back. We stopped at a local restaurant for dinner and ordered chicken and spring rolls. We ended up with fried sausage bites and French fries… a one of a kind dinner!

We were in for a treat with the motorbike tour! It was an absolutely incredible experience, we couldn’t have asked for a better adventure - maybe a better bike for me, but everything else was amazing! I’m not entirely sure of the situation, but I think because I didn’t have a bag (Jeff and I combined our stuff into our carryon backpack), I was given a smaller bike with a small, slightly padded seat while everyone else had bigger bikes with cushioned seats… but my driver made up for it as he was definitely the most genuine of all the drivers. He insisted on putting my helmet on and buckling it for me, even taking it off for me a few times when I remembered to let him. When he did, I would say “ Cảm ơn“ (thank you) in Vietnamese and he would chuckle… it made me question what I was really saying, but I loved the interaction. He also put a piece of cardboard over my seat to keep it cool and would hand me my water at the different stops. He even sang a traditional Vietnamese karaoke song with me on the second night per his request. He didn’t speak any English and I don’t speak Vietnamese, so we used nonverbals and google translate to communicate which just added to the experience.

Jeff had a great driver too! He wasn’t as chivalrous, but he was very friendly and enjoyed joking around. He knew a little English but they relied on mostly nonverbals too. 

Our bike tour started in Ha Giang and looped through the countryside. The views were absolutely incredible and only got better with time. We climbed through the mountain passes and sped through the valleys and tiny rural towns. We passed countless corn fields that spread up and across the hillside and left us in awe of how the farmers harvest it all. 

As we drove through the towns, we were given a glimpse of rural life. It is vastly different than our daily routine and until now, we’ve never seen small cages of chickens on the side of the street, chickens being plucked and washed on the curb, cow’s strolling down the street, or more eye opening, a cow’s head for sale sitting out next to the other meat on the table. Or how about pigs strapped to the back of a motorbike? There was always something to look at! 

We also got a glimpse of daily life in the tiny towns. Their houses and belongings were so simple, and people were always working, adults and children alike. There were mixed feelings that came with it, but we loved when the kids would waive or reach their hands out for a high five.

Our drivers gave us plenty of “butt breaks” so we could stretch out and take in the views. When it was time to go, we’d hear Happy, our main guide holler, “Di toi” aka “Let’s go” and we’d all hop back on the bikes and head out along the often single lane roads. It was a bit of a rush when a big truck or car would pass by!

Another outhouse with a view!

Our meals were family style and gave us a chance to chat with the other guests. We hit jackpot with our group as everyone was so friendly, relaxed, and not big partiers. There were three other couples, one from the UK, one from the Netherlands, and one from Canada. We clicked right from the get go which made the next three days feel like we were hanging with longtime friends and not strangers. 

Our final stop before ending for the day was at H’Mong King Castle. We wandered through the quiet castle grounds and up, down, and through the different levels. It was an impressive estate. 

We stopped in Dong Van and stayed in a hotel for our first night. We had a couple of hours to stroll the city and grab a drink with our new friends before heading to a local restaurant for dinner. The meals were great. We enjoyed sampling the new cuisine, especially the bamboo, green pumpkin, and morning glory. We also had a good laugh about the added French fries at each meal. Our group created a rating system for the fries, which was quite silly.

Day 2 started with breakfast at a local restaurant before heading out for another set of unbelievable views. We had a bit of rain on Day 1 and were hoping for clear skies on Day 2 as this was when we were traveling to Sky Path and Ma Pi Leng Pass which are known for their views. Luckily when it did rain, the boys were prepared and had quite the rain gear for us! Ponchos, pants, and booties if you wanted them! We lucked out (again) and after just a sprinkling of rain in the late morning, the clouds dispersed and the views materialized. We stopped along the way for Happy to point out how close we were to China (we asked if we could go but he said no) and then carried on to one of my favorite views of the ride. The difference between the green peaks and valleys mixed with the multi-colored brown and yellow terraces and bright blue skies, all accented by the shining sun was simply stunning. I could have sat there all day taking it in. 

As late afternoon approached, we stopped at a waterfall to stick our feet in and cool down before continuing on to Du Gia where we spent the night at a local Homestay.

The Homestay was another favorite experience. It was a little rustic as there were openings in the wooden slats in our room, a bug net around the bed, and an array of bugs around, but it was also so unique. At one point when I was in the bathroom, a massive two inch cricket came scurrying under the door and up the wall giving me quite the scare. I don’t think I’ve ever finished and left a bathroom so fast! 

We spent the evening playing volleyball and pool with the hosts and our drivers as dinner was being prepared. During dinner, Happy passed around the “Happy water” and cheersed to a great trip. “Are you ready?!? Mot Hai Ba Yo! Hai Ba Yo! Hai Ba Dzo!” Following dinner, the karaoke machine was pulled out (karaoke is a huge thing here, there are speakers and mics all around, and we saw several people singing it on the streets in the evenings). There was a mix of Vietnamese and English songs throughout the evening and as the evening progressed, the singing turned into chatting. We enjoyed learning more about the Vietnamese culture from Happy and swapping stories with our new friends. 

We started Day 3 by squeezing our way through a local weekend market, stopping to dip our feet in at another waterfall, and soaking in the last of the views. 

The ride was exactly what we were hoping for and better than we could have imagined. This was a new kind of experience for us and a little out of our comfort zones, but it was absolutely incredible. The tranquility of it all was therapeutic as there was literally nothing for us to do but sit back and enjoy the ride. We didn’t have to think about meals and lodging as they were all planned for us. We didn’t have WiFi or cell service during the day so our phones were just cameras allowing us to be present in the moment, and on top of it all we were out in nature which is my favorite and always makes time slow down. 

We are so glad we booked this ride and grateful for Happy, Chung, and Thuan and the rest of the crew for keeping us safe and grateful for our group mates who made the trip what it was!

Our nature high was briefly interrupted as we waited for our bus back to Hanoi. Our departure time came and went and there was still no sign of a bus. Jeff called the company twice and confirmed our location and reservation, but after 40 minutes of waiting we opted to hop on a different sleeper bus that had available seats. It wasn’t nearly as spacious as our first one, but at least it was heading to Hanoi! We finally arrived back in Hanoi around 2am and fell right to sleep. 

We spent our last day in Vietnam wandering through Hanoi. We grabbed a table and drink at one of the tiny cafes on train street and eagerly awaited the passing of the train. The warning sirens rang, the shop keepers ushered everyone back, and the train came barreling by, mere inches away from us. It was closer than we expected leaving us with a rush of adrenaline. 

We met up with our new UK friends from the bike tour and strolled through the Old Quarter viewing all of the stalls packed full of different goods and continued on to Hang Ma Street and Don Xuan Market. 

We stopped at the recommended Pho 10 for lunch and ordered “the special”. We added the provided spices to make it our own and enjoyed every bite!

We continued on our Hanoi tour by meandering around Hoan Kiem Lake, through the French Quarter and ending back at our hotel for an AC break. 

Earlier in the day we saw someone with a “Muji” bag, which was one of our favorite stores from Japan. It’s kind of like a fancy IKEA in that they have so many little gadgets that you never knew you needed. We hopped on the Google and saw that indeed there is a Muji shop in Hanoi and it was in a shopping mall, which meant access to AC. We were not the only ones with this idea as the place was packed, but the stop was worth it to see what Muji had to offer. We ended up leaving with a few new gadgets. 

Our final destination of the day was back to train street. Earlier, we saw all of the lanterns hanging about and knew it would look magical at night, and we were right! 

Vietnam’s been an adventure! I can confidently say it’s expanded our comfort zone and enhanced our perspective on life. Finding food we were comfortable with wasn’t always easy, but we figured it out, and thankfully our systems are mostly in check. Phew! Everyone we met and interacted with were so friendly and welcoming and our little bit of Vietnamese seemed to enhance the overall experience. We enjoyed strolling the streets, observing daily life, and watching the motorbikes make their way through the different cities. The organized commotion of it all continues to amaze us. It was a trip of a lifetime!

Cảm ơn Vietnam!